Intro
Adventure, laughter, and breathtaking views; this is what happened when friend of FINDRA, Moira Forsyth and her friends took on the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites. Moira was kind enough to share her hilarious and unforgettable journey across one of Europe’s most stunning trails. Enjoy!
Discovering the Dolomites
Confession. Before this walk was suggested I had never heard of the Dolomites, never mind the Alta Via 1. Part of the UNESCO World Heritage family this stunning mountain range is located in Northern Italy, on the border with Austria. Alta Via 1 is 115km long, reaching a peak height of 2752m and most of the majestic peaks can be seen on this route, leading to much oohing and aaahing from us all.
There are World War 1 tunnels and museums to visit, and (we were not brave enough for this but you might be) some nerve-jangling Via Ferrata alternatives, should you have the stomach for them.
Over 9 days, our merry band of women-of-a-certain-age walked the equivalent of Dumfries to Glasgow and ascended and descended around 6 Ben Nevis’s, all carrying our own gear.
Rifugio Life
We stayed in Rifugios, mountain huts that we had to start booking in the New Year as they are few and far between and have limited bed capacity. I was expecting spartan accommodation but on the lower slopes we were presented with duvets and fluffy towels, even hair dryers! On the higher peaks it was a badly sprung camp bed with a pillow made of concrete, where we slept in sleeping bag liners under the lung crushing weight of blankets. But every single one was welcoming, the food was just what was needed and each was delightful in their own way.
And with the wine always cheaper than the water what’s not to like about these havens in the clouds!
The Challenge of the Trail
I’m not going to sugar coat the walk though. Alta Via is a toughie. Especially if you are of Scottish descent and walking in 25-degree heat with no wind. Over 2 days alone we covered 34km, climbed 2376m and made 1928m descent. Which my knees, hips and dodgy ankle vouched for.
But the scenery. Oh my. Around every corner there is something to take your breath away although by the end of the 9 days the big jaggy peaks got a mere shrug of the shoulders as the novelty had well and truly worn off.
But no matter how challenging the days were, we discovered the best medicine in the form of Bombardinos that made the world all shiny again. A mix of rum, eggnog and whipped cream, this heaven-in-a-glass was better than any paracetamol.
A Mysterious Smell
One thing we noticed, though, was a strange smell following us. The first time I caught it I thought I was smelling my own breath from the garlic croutons the night before. My fellow walkers described it as damp washing but to me it was like dog poop!
On researching when I came home, it turns out it’s a sulfate-reducing bacteria that has helped in the unique formation of the Dolomites which are mainly calcium magnesium carbonate. But whatever it was, it truly gave me the “dry boak” as we say here in the North. Thankfully it wasn't my breath though.
Highlights Along the Way
I often get asked, of all the walking I've done over many years, what's been my favourite. Well, my friends, Alta Via 1 is most DEFINITELY in the top 10.
Following waterfalls, crossing into areas so dry and rocky nothing grows, passing Rifugio huts balanced precariously on scree-strewn ledges, descending into lush green valleys where we watched Chamois grazing and Marmots ducking, diving and whistling. We have met and blethered to people from all over the world and passed remnants of mountain villages, sadly no more.
Packing, Knickers and Practicalities
Carrying all our own gear (40litre rucksacks weighing around 8 kilos) we had limited clothing so daily knicker washing became the norm. Washing was easy, drying another matter so our rucksacks became washing lines and one experiment of going to bed with said damp knickers on the head was a surprising success. When you have an emergency knicker situation looming you will try anything!
Rifugio Food and Fuel
And what did we eat? Our guidebook had a photo of Beetroot Ravioli in it that we had been slavering over for nearly a year and once we finally got to try it we slavered even more.
Food in the Rifugios was amazing. Usually feeding between 20 and 40 people it was put on the table at 7pm on the dot everywhere. Hearty vegetable broths, pastas, dumplings and cakes were perfect after a calorie-deficient hike.
Breakfast was again served on the dot at 7am and was mainly the continental staple of bread, cheese and meats but packed lunches could also be had with massive door-stop sandwiches and delicious apples. We savoured every mouthful.
The (Old) Spice Girls
As 5 women-of-a-certain-age (our combined years on this planet spanned over 300 years). We stood out a fair bit and were surprisingly often likened to the Spice Girls. (None of us can hold a tune, by the way!) But we took that on board and often sang our way up the hard bits.
We stayed cheery, even when disaster nearly struck when J (no full name to preserve her anonymity) thought she had left her only pair of trousers in the previous Refugio. Much panic ensued. Phone calls...sweaty palms...plans to share leggings…only to find she had them with her all along.
To mark the occasion, we developed a merry ditty to the tune of a very famous Scottish folk song...see if you can follow;
"Let the wind blow high, let the wind blow low,
Down the slopes with our sticks we'll go,
All the Spice Girls shout HELLO!
LASSIE! WHERE'S YER TROOSERS??"
Tips and Recommendations
Hopefully this has encouraged you to look at hiking the Alta Via 1. Word of warning – the Rifugios book up incredibly quickly so getting in there as soon as their booking platforms open is essential.
I have to admit my fellow Spice Girls took on the hassle of email and deposit sending and it got pretty hectic, but it can completely dictate your whole route so get on top of it as soon as you know when you want to start.
There are of course companies who will organise everything for you if you want to pay extra for admin, but in terms of the hike it is relatively simple to self-navigate if you have experience of map reading and a dose of common sense.
We used the Cicreone Guide which was superb and pretty accurate in terms of mileage and ascents/descents but I love a spreadsheet and that helped us keep on track in the planning stages. Its well signposted.
We flew to Venice and got a taxi out to near the start. Pricey but there is little public transport so, again, plan ahead if you want to use buses and trains. If you have more time you can book at few nights in Venice either end which you would totally deserve!
FINDRA on the Trail
All in all it is a highly recommended hike and the (Old) Spice Girls are a WONDERFUL bunch of women to walk with, share ibuprofen with, and do daily sniff tests with.
And FINDRA was with us all the way. At one point I totted it up and between three of us alone we had 1 pair of leggings; 2 pairs of shorts; 3 tshirts; 6 merino mid layers; and a beanie!
Now, if that isn’t a testimonial to the popularity of this brand, for quality, style and the promotion of women of all sizes, ages and abilities to just get outdoors, well, I don’t know what is!
And we are a living and walking product test lab which proves that even in the toughest conditions Findra merino does not smell.
So, thank you Spice Girls (Jan, Lucy, Ulla and Paula). Thank you FINDRA. And thank you Mother Earth for giving us the Dolomites.
Sunday Inspiration
Favourite Book
Alta Via 1 – Trekking in the Dolomites by Gillian Price
We used the Cicreone Guide which was superb and pretty accurate in terms of mileage and ascents/descents but I love a spreadsheet and that helped us keep on track in the planning stages.
Favourite Quote
Favourite Song
Spice up Your Life by the Spice Girls
A tribute to the 5 "ladies-of-a-certain-age"
