By Friend of FINDRA, Katie McGhee
In April 2024, I found myself pulling on my walking boots, strapping on my backpack, and boarding a tiny plane to Lukla, the so-called ‘world’s most dangerous airport’. I suppose there are more relaxing ways to spend your annual leave, but none are quite as memorable as trekking to Everest Base Camp.
This was my second time in Nepal. My first solo trip, back in 2023, was a post-university adventure - the classic “what now?” trip. I’d just graduated, didn’t know what as next, and booked a trip to Nepal, spending 10 weeks there. And honestly, I fell hard - not literally, although I definitely did at some point, but metaphorically. I fell for the mountains, the people, the pace of life. Six months later, I was back, boots laced and legs slightly more prepared.
Flying into Lukla is not for the faint of heart or the fan of smooth landings. The runway is on a mountainside, just 527 metres long and with a pretty scary-looking drop at the end. The planes that land there are small propeller planes, only three seats wide and you feel like you are in the cockpit - with the pilots just in front of you.
From the moment we touched down, I was enchanted. As the plane doors opened, the Himalayas hit me in the face. Snow-capped peaks that didn’t even look real, surrounded us. It felt like someone had accidentally turned the colour saturation up on real life.
The trek itself was 12 days, there and back again (yes, just like the hobbit). Each day, we wandered through mountain villages, across suspension bridges, past yaks, friendly dogs, and gradually gaining altitude each day.
I stayed in tea houses each night, warmed by yak dung stoves and fuelled by a hot cup of lemon, ginger, and honey tea - the ultimate Himalayan experience. As for showers? Yeah, no - absolutely not. The idea of standing under freezing water in sub-zero temperatures was enough to make me cry into my thermals. So I didn't. I rotated base layers and socks and, with the help of baby wipes, hoped for the best. Sorry to everyone I encountered after day 5.
Every day brought even more impressive views than the day before. Prayer flags fluttering in the wind along the route, Tibetan monasteries and kids playing football at 3,500m above sea-level.
We crossed suspension bridges strung high above glacial rivers, watched the sun rise over Ama Dablam, and waited patiently for every yak that was passing (they are in charge of the trail). The higher we climbed, the quieter things became. Not just from altitude and breathlessness, but because the mountains have a way of softening all the noise in your head.
On day 8, after hours of hiking over moon-like, rocky terrain, we arrived at Everest Base Camp. It was surreal. Lines of tents, strings of prayer flags, and the looming Khumbu Icefall ahead. You can’t actually see Everest from base camp, which is wild considering it's the whole reason you're there. However, what you can see is the sheer power of the mountains that surround you.
We made it and celebrated, snapping the obligatory base camp rock photo, then headed down for the night before what was the real highlight for me: Kala Patthar. At 3am the next morning, we started the climb up Kala Patthar, a summit even higher than Base Camp at 5,644m and one of the best viewpoints of Everest itself. Now, when I say it was cold, I mean the kind of cold that bites your skin, laughs at your jacket, and turns your eyelashes into ice.
It was the most physically demanding hike I had done, mainly due to the thinning air. It’s hard to explain what breathing feels like at high altitude if it is something you haven’t experienced before, but if you take in a deep breath, hold it, and then try to breathe normally, that’s a little how it feels. It was certainly hard but standing at the top and watching the sun rise over the highest mountain in the world, there are no words that do it justice. It was humbling. And yes, it made me cry (just a little, but I’m blaming the wind).
Everest us the darker peak on the left!
Out there, in the shadow of the mountains, things are simple. You walk, you eat, you sleep. You learn to carry only what you need. You realise how small you are, how big the world is and how much of it is waiting. I came back to Scotland with slightly stronger calves, some dodgy tan lines and a heart that still lives somewhere in the Himalayas.
Reaching base camp is actually a very small part of the trek and really not one of the most memorable bits. It’s about pushing yourself, getting outdoors, and remembering that adventure doesn’t always mean comfort. Sometimes, it means no showers, frozen water battles and wearing the same socks four days in a row. But it also means sunrises that take your breath away and seeing things that your younger self could only dream of. Before Nepal, my happy place was the hills of Scotland. Give me a good view, a little scramble and some unpredictable weather and I’m content. There's something about being outside and just walking that quiets the mind. Wherever it is, the feeling is the same. So whether your mountain is Everest or the muddy Pentland Hills, get outside. Maybe get a bit lost on the path, but appreciate what is around you. You don’t need a perfect plan - just a good waterproof and a hot flask.
See you on the trail. If you fancy this adventure or something similar, here are some of my pro (not really) tips:
Top Tips:
- Bring lots of layers. You’ll be sweating one minute and shivering the next, sometimes both at the same time, so have options.
- Hydration is key. So is snacking. Bring snacks. Lots of snacks. No really, like lots and lots.
- There’s no rush! Take it easy and take it in.
- Take lots of photos, the memories will stay with you but it’s nice to capture moments too. (I also took a disposable camera which was nice to be able to get the photos months later, once they’d been developed).
- Go with an open mind. You never know, it might change you.
Follow Katie to see more about her trip and future adventures.
Instagram - katie._.mcghee
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